Most mountains give you one top. Lobuche gives you two, and they could not be more different. One welcomes determined beginners with ropes and crampons. The other turns away all but the most skilled mountaineers. They sit side by side above the Khumbu Glacier, sharing a name but almost nothing else....

You leave Kathmandu in a jeep at dawn. Rice fields and rivers pass by your window. After 7 hours, you start walking. A giant wall of ice appears through the clouds. Yak bells ring in the mist. You are not far from the city, but you feel in another world. This is the start of the Lantang Valley Trek,...

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